The Tale of Two Burns: Why Habaneros Hit the Throat and Cayennes Sting the Tongue
It is a frequent vice of the merely quantitative mind, when confronted with a complex phenomenon, to reduce it to a single, vulgar number. Thus, in the matter of chili peppers, we are told to consult the Scoville scale, a blunt instrument beloved of those who prefer a score to an experience. But anyone who has actually eaten a pepper knows that this tells only the most prosaic part of the story. A cayenne will sting the tongue with a heat that is immediate and sharp, while a habanero, often of a comparable Scoville rating, will mount a more insidious assault, its fire building into a lingering blaze at the back of the throat. This is not, I should add, a matter of mere subjective impression or epicurean fantasy. It is a consequence of chemistry and anatomy. The heart of the matter lies in the family of compounds known as capsaicinoids. While the Scoville scale measures their total concentration, it fails to distinguish between the members of this fraug...